Custom ordering myths and ettiquette

I've been selling the jewelry I make for twenty years. For twelve of those years, I've been selling online, and I've received countless requests for custom orders and commissions. 

Aren't custom orders the same thing as commissions?  

In both cases, someone is paying me to make something I wouldn't otherwise make. The terms seem interchangeable, but I think of custom orders as something where I've offered a customizable design -- maybe birthstone bracelets with a choice of colors or stones, or a particular style of wire ring in different sizes. Or a custom order might happen when I've designed a piece of jewelry and listed it for sale, but someone asks me to make another for them, in pink instead of red. 

True story.

On the other hand, commissions are when I'm contacted out of the blue by someone asking me to create something to their specifications. It might be a request for a hundred pins that a retailer wants to purchase at wholesale, a batch of acid-etched logo pendants for a fundraiser, or a "Victorian fairy jewelry set with matching necklace, bracelet and earrings, to go with my costume..."

In the early years of my online jewelry selling, I offered several customizable items and I accepted many commissions. I was eager for business and happy to help others. My primary motivations were:

• A love of creating jewelry
• The desire to make others happy 
• To build my reputation, customer base and skills
• Money -- any little bit I could get

Now, I rarely accept commissions nor will I fill custom orders. Part of the reason for this is that I have so little time. Jewelry is not my full-time business any longer.

But even when I still created jewelry on a daily basis, after awhile I'd ceased accepting queries for custom pieces because 95% of the inquiries were mucked up in some way. (Feel free to substitute an "F" for the "M" if you so desire.) Either the request itself was unreasonable or the process of filling it was a major headache. 

I tried implementing a few guidelines and requirements, such as a 50% non-refundable deposit before I would begin work. I had a design fee of "$20 that would be added to all custom orders" which weeded out that folks who, bless them, could only afford to spend $20 for my materials, time and expertise. 

But I still encountered a lot of misconceptions, assumptions, and downright rudeness. Things like:

• "You should be happy for any money you can get." Well, no. I don't want to spend twelve hours -- between emailing back and forth with the customer, creating initial design sketches, searching for and purchasing the right parts, actually making then photographing the piece (and/or each stage of the piece) for their approval -- just to make a $30 item. Minus the cost of materials, social security and income taxes, I'm making less than $1 an hour. That's an insult. 

• "You should be happy to have my business." Not necessarily. Some customers are rude, unreasonable, crazy, forgetful, cheap, ignorant, slanderous and impossible to please. People who sell their art or craft are not the same as a business such as Wal-Mart or Sears. They are just one individual who is giving a little piece of their heart and soul when they make something. They should not be treated poorly, and they do not have an obligation to try and please everyone who walks up to their booth or visits their website. And artists who are in demand have the luxury of picking and choosing their projects. 

• "It should be easy for you to make another one of these for me. After all, it is just like the one you made before." Again, no. I'm one person working from home, not a jewelry supply warehouse. If the piece is unusual (and it probably is, that's why they want it, right?) then it either involves unique parts and/or a difficult technique. Just because I was able to find a particular bead, charm or watch part on Etsy or eBay or some other supplier last year, doesn't guarantee I'll be able to find that part any longer. And just as clothing styles and trends change, just as car parts differ from model to model and year to year, jewelry materials constantly change. There are some basics -- jump rings, Czech glass, etc -- but colors and styles do come and go. 

• "But I want it. Really bad." I quote the Dread Pirate Roberts: Get used to disappointment. Your desire, while flattering, does not affect the price of sterling silver or the value of my time.

At this point, I am not looking for reasons to practice and hone my skills. I've put in my 10,000 hours. Unless the customer is asking for something I know will be quick and painless, or (at the other end of the spectrum) offering me a truly unique opportunity to create something awesome, exciting and challenging; and/or a substantial sum of money; and/or something of significant importance (charity auction, thank you gift for someone who saved a burning building full of babies, etc), it's just not worth my valuable time. And I don't mean valuable because I'm a snobby artist. I mean valuable because it's my LIFE. The only life I have. I would rather spend it with my kids, my husband, my friends, my volunteer work, my regular full-time job(s), or doing the fun things that feed my own soul. Honestly, I'd rather fold underwear than make yet another Pink Bead Necklace replica of the one worn by Kaylee in Firefly. 

An example of something I can only make once.
It features a real watch face and parts from some old,
broken antique jewelry I found at a flea market.

Of course, YMMV. I know there are jewelry artists who would love to accept custom orders. Perhaps their designs make effective use of mainstream, easily-obtainable materials and they have fine-tuned their ordering process. Maybe they are empty-nesters whose husbands work and they have a lot of spare time. They might be college kids or unemployed individuals who really need the extra money, as little as it is (I've been there). Maybe they are fantastic at dealing with difficult people or enjoy making the same thing again and again. My hat is off to them. But even in that case, here are my...

Suggestions for people seeking a custom order

• Expect to pay at least $50, maybe even $100 or more. Artists who are in demand can demand higher prices. This is not because they are asshats, but because their time is limited and they have to make the best of it. It's basic supply and demand stuff. Plus, if they're popular, people are already paying them tons to do the epic things, so why would they stop all that to make your $30 pendant? Even if they're not in high demand (however you define that), artists and crafters are people who are giving you their time and effort. Minimum wage is at least $7 and that's unskilled labor. This is skilled labor. A labor of love, yes, but still labor. They should be able to reasonably expect at least $10-$12 an hour, above and beyond the cost of materials, PayPal fees, taxes and shipping. 

• Check Etsy before you ask for a custom item. Seriously. There's like a bazillion crazy things on there. Someone emailed me the other day asking if I'd make him a steampunk ring. Searching for the words "steampunk ring" on Etsy comes back with more than TEN THOUSAND results. Pick any random thing. "Green pickle." More than 400 results. "Mustache baby shower." Over 1,400 results. "Clockwork angel." Almost a hundred items. If nothing else, you'll be armed with a reasonable expectation of cost and a pile of pictures so you can show the artist, "I want something like this item, but with this thing from this other item, and with this other thing, but in brass..."

• Don't ask for the moon unless you're willing to pay them to build a rocketship. In other words, no, I will not make you an exact replica of each panel of the Gundestrup Cauldron, acid-etched on hammered and riveted copper and brass, but make each face look like one of your children, with matching earrings and bracelet, for only $60. That may seem like a lot of money to you, but twenty hours of my time is a lot to me.

• Do not request an item unless you are willing to follow through, return email in a timely manner, and pay the artist. This should be a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised.

• Don't be a dick during the process. Be patient, be kind, be helpful, be gracious. That doesn't mean you should accept something you don't want or that you shouldn't ask questions, but at least be willing to compensate the artist for the time they spend trying to meet your demands and any materials they purchase on your behalf, even if you realize that they are not going to be able to fill your request to your satisfaction.

• Don't expect a rush job. This is handmade stuff, it takes time. Many artists and crafters have other jobs and obligations -- and probably several pieces to make ahead of yours. It's not our fault you waited until the week of your girlfriend's birthday. 

• Don't bargain or barter. I don't mind bartering -- once in awhile -- and I've met many fellow artists who enjoy it as well. If you have something of worth to offer, go ahead and offer it. But be realistic -- is a bar or two of your sandalwood soap equal to a sterling silver pendant with real garnets? Don't be offended if refused and don't take up more of the artist's time trying to talk them into a trade. As for bargaining, if the artist says it will cost $100, don't ask "Would you do it for $50?" If they could and would, they'd have already said so. Instead, say, "Unfortunately, I only have $50 to spend. Is there some way to do a smaller version or use different materials to meet my budget?" Which ties into...

• Give as much information as you can in your inquiry. I don't mean ten pages of design specs, but something more than "Hey, I saw this thing and I wondered if you could make one for me." Please. Don't make me have to ask: What thing? Where did you see it? When do you need it? How much are you willing to pay? Who are you? Is your email and contact info correct? Are you inside or outside the US? Are you an individual or a company? Do you want one or one hundred? 

• Familiarize yourself with the artist's accepted method(s) of payment. If they have a big PayPal logo on their site and you foster a rabid hatred for PayPal, don't expect the artist to open an Amazon account just for YOU. Do not expect the artist to accept a credit card number in email (ye gods and little fishies, I can't tell you how many people wanted me to do this, though it's insanely insecure and no matter how much I kept explaining that I couldn't just "put their number into PayPal for them" or run it through the credit card machine that I did not possess). Don't expect them to take an out of state personal check #103 from a stranger. Many online sellers won't even accept money orders any longer, because there are so many fakes. 

Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

I've got a brand... now what?

As I mentioned in my previous post "Branding - no, not moo cows," I'm an author as well as a jewelry maker. My publisher provides professional assistance through informative webinars, and I've found that some of this information can also apply to the business of selling handmade jewelry. With permission from Jenny Bullough, manager of digital content at Harlequin Enterprises (the parent company of my publisher, Carina Press), here's some information about personal brand -- rewritten to apply to jewelry selling, with additional information based on my own experience and the input of the Gem Gypsy and the Triangle Jewelry Makers.

Super Brand! The magical sparkly you!

Got your BRAND? Your brand is your public presence -- the professional, creative you that is facing the world. It's a combination of your personality, logo, style, and reputation.

Here are the next steps toward making your brand even stronger, improving your sales, and having a successful go at selling handmade jewelry. 

Website

If you're serious about selling jewelry, you've got to have a decent website. Even if your funds and/or computer skills are limited, there are some steps you can take. Check out my "Building a Better Website" for the basics on professional, quality web presence.

Make time to market yourself

This can be as much or as little as your schedule allows, but spend at least 10 minutes a day or an hour a week, updating your websites and social media. If a month goes by and there are no status updates, shop listings, or blog posts, followers will lose interest (or assume you have).

Continue to produce

Don't make your customers wait too long. If they're excited about your work, they will keep checking back. If there's nothing new, they will think you've lost interest and they will lose interest, too. "Buzz" ebbs and flows quickly on the Internet.

The bill-paying job, children, illness, or just the creative doldrums, can leave you without new content. Or without the time to share new content. Life happens. But even that does not need to keep you from producing something.

If you don't have a new piece of jewelry, or time to photograph your inventory, you can still post social media updates and rearrange the pics on your website. Perhaps there are some items that haven't sold in awhile and have cycled onto page 3 or 4 of your website. Relist them with new descriptions and move them front and center.

Or post links to relevant content on other websites -- for instance, I make steampunk jewelry, so I sometimes post links to cool steampunk pictures or books, if I don't have new jewelry to share.

If you are comfortable sharing personal information, you can let your customers know that you have a huge deadline at work, or that your 7-year-old is sick, and thank them for their patience. As I've mentioned several times throughout this blog, part of the value added to what you sell is that it was handmade by a real person. So be a real person, and your customers will appreciate it. 

Social media

It is impossible for most people to keep up several social media sites at the same time -- Facebook, Twitter, Linkedin, Etsy, Tumblr, Flickr, MySpace, deviantART, Wordpress, etc. Choose one hub that you maintain consistently. Be present on others, but use them to direct people to your preferred social site.

Engage customers with occasional posts, ask questions to prompt interaction, and always reply to queries and comments (politely and in a timely manner) even if just to say "thank you!"

Have short-term and long-term goals

A jewelry business is never "finished." It must constantly meet the changing needs of the marketplace, adopt new technologies and social media platforms, attract customers, challenge and inspire you as an artist.

Continue ongoing improvements and new offerings. How do you want your business to expand? How might you improve each customer's experience? What will you will do if a particular piece of jewelry sells well? Are you prepared to make more, or to make coordinating items?

Where do you see yourself in ten years? What do you want to be doing with your jewelry?

Plans can change. But having a plan will give you confidence, security and direction, which will further enhance your reputation with customers.  




Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

Branding - no, not moo cows

Your "brand" is what makes you stand out.

As I mentioned in my previous post, I'm an author as well as a jewelry maker. My publisher provides professional assistance through informative webinars, and I've found that some of this information can also apply to the business of selling handmade jewelry. With permission from Jenny Bullough, manager of digital content at Harlequin Enterprises (the parent company of my publisher, Carina Press), here's some information about personal brand -- rewritten to apply to jewelry selling, with additional information based on my own experience and the input of the Gem Gypsy and the Triangle Jewelry Makers.

Your brand is your public presence, the professional, creative you that is facing the world. It's a combination of your personality, logo, style, and reputation.

I was skeptical when first confronted with the concept of branding myself. It sounded like corporate advertising buzzword BS. But if you are a handmade jewelry seller, you are not just selling jewelry, you really are selling yourself -- your skills, quality, and passion.

People have ample opportunity to buy jewelry from department stores, gift shops, friends, family, Etsy, flea markets and craft shows, right? So, how do you stand out? That's where your "brand" is important. Or to put it another way...

HAVING A STRONGER BRAND WILL IMPROVE YOUR SALES

I'm not suggesting you be something you aren't. In fact, the more honest and authentic you are -- with your customers and yourself -- the better.

Here are a few things you can do to get started building your brand.

Offer a quality product

This should be a no-brainer. Constantly strive to improve your jewelry-making skills. Offer dependable, consistent quality and customer service. This will build your positive reputation.

Develop your own unique vision

When you started making jewelry, you were probably taking lessons, using kits, following YouTube tutorials, using magazine instructions and copying someone else's style. When you grow as an artist and begin selling your work, you'll be developing a style all your own -- you'll have to, or it's copyright infringement.

You may not do it on purpose, but you probably already have a style of your own (or one emerging). As the founder of a jewelry artists group, I've had the opportunity to see the work of many jewelry makers, of all skill levels. Every single one of them has a different style. Show me a piece of jewelry from someone in our group, and I'll tell you who made it, based on the materials, the subject matter, and the way it's put together.

No one else can be you. You have your own unique experiences, preferences, abilities, interests, and those should come through your work. This is what sets you apart from everyone else. It's why customers will choose to shop with you, and it's what they will expect when they return.

Choose a focus

You might be in the early stages of developing your style, experimenting with several different materials, and that's fine. But if you are selling your work, you should have some consistency. No artist wants to be limited, and it is okay to evolve and change. But if people are buying what you do, that means they want you to continue doing it -- and they will come back to you expecting more of the same.

This should not be a narrow, specific category, like "red rosaries" or "glass pendants." You are looking for a general direction. For authors, we would use the word genre. Just as it's difficult to build a readership if one jumps from children's books to erotica to crime drama, it's difficult to build a following of repeat jewelry customers if you are jumping back and forth from metals to clay to beads, or from inexpensive to high-end, or from pink cutesy girlish to black Goth to conservative bank teller.

If you're not sure how to define yourself, look over your body of work. Themes will emerge.

I'm known for creating jewelry that embodies a unique combination of imagination and history, with Victorian, Celtic and science fiction elements. If I try to list anything else on my website -- say, hippy woven hemp necklaces, pet charm bracelets, rosaries, birthstone gifts for moms, etc. -- it does not sell as well. Because my customers are looking for the style they've come to associate with Jen Hilton.

Craft your brand statement

This is also called a tagline or slogan. Some very well-known jewelery slogans include A diamond is forever or Every kiss begins with... Whatever it is, use it on all platforms: Etsy, website, blogs, Facebook, Twitter profile, business cards, etc.

Like your logo, it should be associated with you and it should communicate who you are to your customers. Why? Because in our modern, digital world, potential customers will only spend seconds -- or fractions of seconds -- looking at your ad, website, logo, or listing. They need something that tells them all about you, in ten words or less.

If you're having trouble with this, look at your design elements. What can you say that encompasses the bulk of your work? What feeling does it evoke? What imagery? Here are a few examples:

"Fun, fresh and flirty."
"Dark jewels, deep secrets."
"Strong women, bold jewelry."

The Gem Gypsy, owner and operator of Earth Traditions, uses "Gifts from legends, lore, and fantasy."

The Gem Gypsy says... "An important factor with marketing you and your merchandise is your NAME and the LOOK of your logo, website, emails, letterheads, business cards, social media, even the way you dress and present yourself. Your look needs to have a common theme to set yourself apart. Find a common thread and be consistent. I have been using the same signs, logo, name for 12 years now. I've had all kinds of people tell me, when they see my logo that they've 'seen this before' and that makes me feel great! My branding is working."

My tagline is Embellish your adventure with unique handmade jewelry. I liked the idea that "embellish" could apply to writing and jewelry, as I consider myself a storyteller in both areas. Because I make so much jewelry for cosplay, costuming, science fiction and fantasy, I felt that I was creating more than just something pretty -- I was helping people live out their own adventures. So, we have "Embellish your adventure..."

"OK, I'm working on my brand. Now what?" 

That's the subject of my next post!




Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

Building a better website

Making jewelry is my part-time hobby and sanity-saver. Last year, it became even more part-time because my cyberpunk romantic thriller Stellarnet Rebel was published by Carina Press, a subsidiary of Harlequin Enterprises, and I'm currently working on the sequel.

What's this have to do with selling jewelry? Well, my publisher provides professional webinars to assist its authors, and I noticed that some of this information would be useful to jewelry makers, too!

So with the permission of Jenny Bullough, manager of digital content at Harlequin, here are some tips for creating a better website -- taken from my webinar notes and modified to apply to jewelry selling. Additional information is from my personal experience and the input of the Triangle Jewelry Makers.

First of all, YES YOU NEED A WEBSITE, regardless of where else you might appear or where your work is sold. It doesn't need to be an online store, but it needs to be the nexus of all of your shops, blog, upcoming events, promotions, social media, etc.

A website of your very own is under your control. An Etsy shop is subject to Etsy. A Facebook page is subject to Facebook. Your website is yours.

And it needs to look presentable. Which should be obvious, but in a nutshell, PROFESSIONAL LOOKING WEBSITE = TRUST. 

Not sure what makes a good web design? Check out: WEB PAGES THAT SUCK for some guidelines.

But before you sit down to build a website, MAKE A PLAN. List everything that would need to be there -- theme, logo, navigation, social media, jewelry categories, points of purchase, etc. Ask yourself what your customers are going to be looking for. The main thing, of course, is they'll need to know what you make and how to buy it.

Part of the value added to what you sell is that it was handmade by a real person. So don't forget to include a BIO, artist statement, photo of yourself, or other personal info. 

REGISTER A URL. For jewelry sellers, this will probably be your name, your name and the word "jewelry," or your FBN/DBA. As I've mentioned before, try to keep it simple.

REGISTER YOUR EMAIL AND SOCIAL MEDIA to match the url as much as possible, to eliminate customer confusion. If someone hears about you from a friend, or meets you at an event, or stops by your booth at an art show, and they search for you on the internet, they need to be able to find you. Being consistent ensures you are not only easy to find, but that you will be at the top of search engines and it will be obvious to customers that they've got the right person.

Now, onto the specifics about the website itself...

Your HOME PAGE should readily identify who you are, what you do, your logo, tagline, style, site navigation, and your newest pieces for sale.

The screen they see before they have to scroll or click for any reason should contain the header, site navigation, and links to social media -- at the very least. New material and the latest information should also be front and center, so that return visitors will know right away that there's something new to explore.

The HEADER GRAPHIC is the image at the top of your website. It should not dominate the page, forcing visitors to scroll down before they see anything else. The header should reflect your style and overall theme. Don't have a theme? Then it's time to make some decisions. See my next post about branding...

The website should be EASY TO NAVIGATE. If visitors have to go searching for the cart button or the contact link, or if they can't find the information they're looking for, you've lost their trust and you're going to lose them.

Your site should be CLEAN AND UNCLUTTERED. This aids in navigation, but it also allows for faster download. Some of your customers might be on a dial up connection, a slower computer, or a smartphone. No auto-play music, sounds, animations, flash, etc., that might slow the download time or crash someone's browser.

NOT an example of "clean and uncluttered."

Always use DARK TEXT ON LIGHT BACKGROUND. It doesn't have to be B&W, but use dark colors on lighter colors. It's called contrast, and is easier on the eyes.

Use a READABLE FONT. There's a temptation to make it small (to squeeze in more information), but not all of your customers have great vision. And you might be tempted to use fancy swirly pretty fonts. Go right ahead and use them... in your logo or header. But the rest of your text should be simple. When's the last time you read a book or magazine article in Medieval Uncial or Gothic Calligraphy?

NO 3RD PARTY ADS. It might sound like a good idea to put Google ads or something on your site to generate revenue, or use a "free" web service that puts ads on your site... but this can backfire. Ads like this are often targeted to users based on keywords within your site. So, you could end up with several jewelry websites luring your customers away. Or customers might incorrectly associate you with other businesses. Or you could end up with ads that your customers find offensive.

TEST THE WEBSITE in different browsers. Don't assume that if it looks ok in Internet Explorer it will also look fine in Firefox. Also, check the website's functionality. Do the shopping carts work properly? Is the shipping being calculated correctly? Do the links work? Enlist the help of friends, or go down to the local library to try it from their browser. (Notice I didn't say try it from work. Your workplace might not mind, but I don't want to get you in trouble!)

Finally, KEEP THE SITE UPDATED. If your last post was three months ago, the public will assume you've lost interest and they will too. Stay fresh. If you're not adding new items, rotate the items you have so new ones appear on the home page. If you don't have time to write new content, consider adding a widget that will automatically show your latest tweets or Etsy listings.

Good luck!




Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

"Why does it cost so much?"

If you do shows, events, festivals, or even if you just sell to friends, at some point you will probably get a question like, "Why does your jewelry cost so much?"

It doesn't matter if you're selling a hand-forged, solid sterling silver, acid-etched cuff for $300 or a ceramic pendant on a cotton cord for $10. You are eventually going to hear the question. And judging by my experiences, and the experiences of my friends in the Triangle Jewelry Makers, you're going to hear it more than once.

Your initial reaction might be to lower all of your prices, question your skills, or become critical of your work. Don't do that. Because there will also come a time when you will hear, "You don't charge enough." It's all a matter of perspective.

You may feel compelled to reply with a defensive justification. "I spent five hours working on this...! You'd understand if you knew anything about making jewelry...! When you buy jewelry in the store, it's cheap because some 14-year-old in China got paid ten-cents to make it, and it probably contains lead...!"

Um... don't do that, either. As tempting as it is.

Understand that patrons don't always think before they say things. They might not even realize that the maker of the jewelry is sitting right there and overhearing them. They see a price tag, and they have a gut reaction -- they imagine how many groceries they could buy with $40, or the doctor bill they need to pay, or the gas they could put in their car. How in the world could a bracelet be as important as these things?

Many people may not realize that your jewelry is handmade, by YOU, even if you are at an arts and crafts festival where everything else is made by hand, and even if you have a big shiny sign saying "Handmade Jewelry by ME." They might be assuming that you are only reselling the same items they see all the time at KMart for half the price.

Which is another point to consider -- a lot of people don't know the difference between a handmade piece of jewelry and something mass-produced. Would you know the difference between a hand-sewn quilt and one from Target? A loaf of homemade banana bread and one from Whole Foods? A German-engineered 8-cylinder engine and a transmission from a 1976 Pinto? At a glance? Really?

As a jewelry maker, and a lover of sparkly things, are you taking for granted your ability to spot the difference between sterling silver and pewter, gold plate and base metal, faceted garnets and plastic, well-made wire loops and ones that are destined to fall apart? Remember that most people do not possess these skills.

It also helps to remember that not everyone has extra money to spend, and that fact has nothing at all to do with your skills or the value of your jewelry. The median household income in the US is $50K. In North Carolina, it's even lower, $44K. That's for an entire household, possibly containing children and elderly relatives. The per capita income -- that is, the average income earned by each individual in the US -- is only $27K. (Source) In North Carolina, it's $20K. (Source)

So, when someone says, "Why does it cost so much?" what they are really asking is, "Why should I spend my hard-earned money on your jewelry?"

Answer the second question, not the first, when you reply. Depending on who you are and what you'd like to say about yourself, responses might include:

- "I put a great deal time and creativity into my jewelry, every piece is handmade and unique. No one else in the world will have one like it."

- "It's made in the USA, and I use beads and charms that are made by local artisans."

- "I've taken several jewelry classes at Pullen Art Center, Ornamentea and the local university, and every piece is made with not only beauty but durability in mind."

- "I am happy to make one for you in red or purple. I also take custom orders, and can re-size any item for you right here while you wait."

- "This is made of sterling silver, and these are iolite gemstone briolettes. There's no plastic, lead or nickel in my pieces."

And if they still don't get it, just let it go. They're not your target audience. But if you find you are being asked that question A LOT, you might want to re-examine your choice of marketing venue, or expand your range of price points.





Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

Naming your handmade jewelry business

As I've written before, selling handmade jewelry does not require you to invent a business name. Painters sign paintings with their own names. Authors use a byline -- sometimes a pseudonym, for marketing or social reasons -- but the name is still a name, not "Quill Pen Inc."

In a similar manner, a jewelry maker doesn't necessarily need to be "My Beautiful Jewels" instead of Mary Jones.

However, there are several reasons why people choose to sell their jewelry under a fictitious business name. These might include:

1) Handmade items are not the only thing you sell, and so you need a retail business name.

2) Jewelry is not the only thing you do, so you want a name which encompasses everything you offer.

3) Your name is very common, already in use elsewhere, and/or not available for email and url.

4) You are doing business, selling at events, etc., with one or more friends or family.

5) You want to protect your privacy. (Though, keep in mind, it will become difficult to maintain a great degree of privacy if you are going to be on the internet, standing behind a sales table, filing public records such as a business license, and conducting any ongoing commerce with the public.)

6) You want to open a business checking account, have a business phone number, etc.

7) It's fun.

If you've decided to operate under a fictitious business name, here are some things to consider. Some may seem at odds with each other -- "be easy to spell" vs "be unique" -- you will need to determine how to balance these considerations against your own personal goals.


Does your business name reflect your business? 

If you call yourself "Earthy Enchantments" are potential customers going to understand that you're selling handmade jewelry? Or are they going to think you're selling massage oils, occult tools, or garden plants?

When someone sees your business name on the internet, a vendor list, or an advertisement, what is it going to tell them? It might be their only point of connection with you. It will need to convey a lot of information and intrigue them into clicking through or coming to find you. 


Is it unique?

Anyone on the Internet knows the frustration of discovering that their name is already someone else's email or Twitter account. So being unique is not only a marketing tool but a necessity.

Make sure you Google your potential business name before using it. You don't want to be mistaken for someone else (in my case, that "someone else" is a nude model who shares my name). And check a url registrar or Betterwhois.com to see if your name would be available as a website.

I've been making jewelry for a long time, and there are some pretty common words in the biz -- "sparkle," "jewels," "adornment," "glitter," "treasures," etc. If you're going to use one of these, consider pairing it up with something unusual.

If you're planning to build a social media platform (and you should, if you want to increase your success), also check with Facebook, Twitter, and the email and blog services you plan to use, to make sure your chosen business name will be available.


Is it easy to remember? Easy to spell?

This might be difficult if you are also trying to be unique, memorable and intriguing. The best I can suggest is to avoid the temptation to be obscure, clever or verbose.

PaulasPreciousPerfectPins.com is a mouthful and a typing handful. Unless you're selling steampunk jewelry under a neo-Victorian persona, avoid
PaulasPerspicuousParaphrenalia.com or you are just going to tick people off. Seriously.

PaulasPins.com is much easier and comes right to the point. /pun

Come up with something that is easy to say and easy to remember--or easy to guess, so that person who stopped by your booth at the craft show can find you online later in case they lose your business card. They probably won't find you if they Google "paula pins" and you are PawluzPinz.etsy.com.


Avoid boxing yourself in

What if Paula chose PaulasPenguinPins.com because she started out making penguin pins, but two years later is making lions and daisies? Then she'll find herself doing the naming game all over again--and changing her business cards, url, email, etc.

Trends change, customer feedback will shape your direction, and your interests and abilities will morph over time. Don't assume that you will always be making birthstone bracelets or silly monkey jewelry. Select a name that will allow you to grow.




Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

Photographing your jewelry

If you are selling online, you need good photographs. There are a ton of tutorials, tips and resources for taking good pictures, just search Google or YouTube.

Here's a quick overview of how to improve your online pictures -- which means improving your online sales, as well!

Light

Having a lot of light is important. Jewelry looks better with sparkle. More light = less blur. Natural light = true color. Standard light bulbs, while they might seem bright enough to us, can make jewelry look yellow (if incandescent) or blue (if fluorescent) in photographs.

Some people use light boxes. The idea behind this is to put your jewelry in the center of several reflective surfaces. Again, more light = better pictures. Not necessarily glaring sunlight, which can have it's own problems, just light from more angles. You can buy a light box, or make your own. Search Google or YouTube for "DIY photography light box." 

Macro lens

"Macro" is a special setting on some cameras, which allows you to put the lens very close to the object. "Telephoto" means you can take a closeup from very far away. "Macro" means you can take a closeup from... closeup.

If you are not using the macro setting, you are going to get blurry pictures when you get too close. But if you don't get close, potential buyers are not going to see the beauty and detail of your work. Macro is the only way I know of to get the sharp detail you need to sell jewelry online.

Not all digital cameras come with a macro setting. If you are buying a camera you plan to use for photographing your jewelry, make sure it has a macro setting -- typically indicated by a symbol that looks like a little flower.

White backdrop

I've seen beautiful photos shot on black, patterned or colored backgrounds, and with a variety of props such as necklace displays, leaves, and other items. But if you're having trouble with these, try shooting against a white background. White reflects light, offers truer color, and also makes it easier to "touch up" your photos with your editing software. When you've achieved sharp, bright pictures with a white background, then begin introducing other elements.

Offer several different views of each item

Etsy does this as standard procedure for listings, but it's a good idea in any online selling situation. Try shooting from different angles. Have shots with props and without. Use white and dark backdrops. Have a closeup picture of the details and also a picture of the entire piece.

Digital editing program

This might be something such as Adobe Photoshop, Corel PaintShop Pro, Photoscape, Picasa 3 or GIMP. Some cost money, some are free. A photo editor is necessary because -- in spite of all your best efforts -- you're probably not going to get the perfect picture out of your camera. It will still need some cropping, brightness/contrast adjustment, color balancing, and maybe something like a speck of dust or hair removed from the background.

How I take my photos

I take all of the photos for JLHjewelry using a Fujifilm digital camera with a macro setting. I typically use a combination of indirect natural light and fill-in flash. I do not have a light box or a tripod. I photograph all of my pieces against a piece of plain white paper. I finish the photos with GIMP, the GNU Image Manipulation Program, which is free to download.




Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

Good shows and bad

I've known Jill Liles of Liv'nGood Jewelry for three years. She is one of the co-organizers and chainmaille guru of the Triangle Jewelry Makers. Check out the "Grow your business" section of her blog about using twitter, google analytics, and more.

Q: What kind of jewelry do you make?

Chainmaille, steampunk, semi-precious stone beading, whatever catches my eye.

Q: How long have you been making and selling jewelry?

Making for 3.5 years, selling for 2.5 years. I filled up my jewelry box, my mom's, and my sisters. It was either give up the hobby or start selling the stuff.

Q: Is this a full-time biz or a hobby?

Let's go with "hobby plus." I do try to make money at it, but I have a "real" job too that pays the bills.

Q: How many events do you do a year?

Probably 10 or so. That sounds like a lot more than it feels. Usually April-May my weekends are full and then again in Oct-November. I won't do a show in Jun-Aug (too hot) or Dec-Jan (too cold).

Q: What was your first show or event?

The Fuquay-Varina Celebration of the Arts and it was f****g hot!! It was June 4 and 104 degrees. I was in a side street off the main drag between two brick buildings that bounced the heat back and forth like a pizza oven. And I didn't sell diddly.

Q: What are the best and worst shows you've ever done?

Boylan Heights Art Walk in 2009 is still my #1 show from a sales perspective. I did about double my usual sales at that one event. It's a long established art show, so the people coming are looking for art and don't mind paying for it either.

The worst is a toss up between that first Fuquay show above, my last show in Fuquay where I was situated between a politician and a masseuse, and the show at Duke Homestead where I sold nothing, zip, nada.

Q: How do you feel when you have a bad experience at a show? 

It's tough but I try to go into every show thinking I'm just there to give out biz cards, any sales are "gravy." That makes the duds easier. But so far (knocking on wood) I've at least made back my entry fee at every show I've done (at least the Duke Homestead show was a freebie for me).

Q: What is your set up? How long does it take you to set up? Do you have help or do it alone?

I do it all alone now. My husband helped the first few shows, but then I got it down. It takes me about 45 minutes to an hour if I'm doing the tent and all. Shows where it's just tables and displays are a little faster. But, I'm a "futzer." I'll move pieces around the whole time if I don't like how it looks. My basic set up is three tables in a U shape, with me sitting at the back behind them.

Q: Have you sold through consignment or galleries?

There's one store in Cary that has bought a few of my pieces wholesale, and I was in the Craftland Market at Scrap Exchange last fall. I forced myself to go into all the little cutesy shops in Apex and ask if they sold jewelry, hated every second of it and got nothing out of it, so I've never tried that route again. 

Q: What's your experience with internet selling?

I have my own website (but few sales there so far). I also have stores on the big two (Etsy and Artfire) and have had a few sales on each. The handmade sites are flooded with jewelry makers, so it's tough to stand out.

If you're just starting with the online stuff, I recommend setting up a free storefront on Artfire. Unlike Etsy, there are no listing fees, so this is an inexpensive way to figure out what you'll need to know about every piece you try to sell (good photos from all angles, price, shipping, tags, description, etc).

My philosophy is to promote myself and my site, not anyone else. So you won't see me advertising my Etsy or Artfire sites on my business cards. When it comes to online presence, you really should get your own domain and website. You can buy your domain name for $10 a year, and set up a basic free site using Blogger, WordPress or a similar service. Even if it only contains your links to an Etsy or Artfire store, having your own domain will pay off in the long run. It is the web address you should use on your business cards, show applications, etc. 

If you take the next step and decide to build an online store, test every single aspect of it as if you had never seen a computer before. I skipped that step on my own site and it was months before I realized that not only was there no way to contact me through the site, but the security settings weren't connecting. So even if you did want to buy something, you couldn't. And since there was no contact form.... I had a big time "doh" moment there!

Thanks, Jill! 
~ Jen





Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

Tips on pricing your handmade jewelry

When talking to other handmade jewelry artists, it seems that pricing one's work is as painful as keeping records, paying taxes or filling out forms. Maybe even more so, because it involves the psychological and sometimes very emotional element of putting a value on your time, creativity and joy.

But if you want to sell your work, it must be done. There are several variations, but the general formula goes something like this:

* The total cost of your materials (beads, wire, thread, clasps, etc)
* PLUS the total cost of your overhead (travel, vendor or web fees, etc)
* PLUS $10 per hour for the time it took to make the item
* MULTIPLIED x2 EQUALS the wholesale price.
* MULTIPLIED x2 again EQUALS the retail price.

But "formulas" don't take into account things like marketability, venues, or learning curve.

"I set an hourly rate of $10 since this is mostly still a hobby - some people who do this for a living use $20+ but it's really up to you." - Jill Liles, Liv'ngood Jewelry

MARKETABILITY

It can be a balancing act... If you price your work too low, it won't be valued by your customers. But if you price it too high, they won't buy it -- unless you're absolutely brilliant and you create things that people can't live without. Genius trumps all pricing rules.

"While I'm sure it makes sense to you that the more time you put in the more valuable it is, that is only true if the final product is something that people will pay much more for. Focus on making beautiful woven-bead designs, and charge as much for them as you think people will pay. If you find that customers are not willing to pay more for the designs that take you more time to make, you may consider focusing on items that you can charge more yet which take less of your time and labor." - Dr. David Weiman

Bead weavers spend several hours -- even days -- making one piece, and their skills are incredibly admirable. But, from what I've heard, they are rarely able to sell their jewelry for the $10 to $20 hourly rate in the formula. There just isn't much of a market for $500 to $1,000 artfully arranged beads.

I've found that the value of a particular piece of jewelry can be as much about supply and demand as it is about the cost of materials and time. This is when it helps to stand out, to have a reputation, a client base, well-developed style and skills. With jewelry, as with other arts and crafts, customers are buying a particular theme, style or artist's name, and will be willing to pay more for something in high demand or of high personal value to them.

In addition to supply and demand, I've found that earrings in general tend to support much higher markups than bracelets, and bracelets more than necklaces, even though it takes much longer to make a necklace (usually) than to make a bracelet or a pair of earrings.

CONSIDER: VENUE

The same pair of earrings might sell in a boutique in upscale Cameron Village for $25. Put them on a pretty display, under a light that makes them sparkle, and you might even get $35. But hang them with 20 other pairs on a cheap wire rack at the flea market, and you can't sell them for $5.

Consider your venue, and the buyers it brings in contact with your work. If you're putting your work in a beach-resort boutique, you are reaching people with a lot of money to spend on $200 glass fish and seashell jewelry. If you are putting your work on a card table at a church bazaar, you are reaching an entirely different group of people, perhaps those who want inexpensive lanyards for their eyeglasses, or a $10 pair of earrings for a niece. These are two entirely different markets. Some market out there is YOUR market, and you should know what it is.

Venue is also part of your presentation, and presentation can add $ to your prices. This works online, too. You'll get away with charging more, and be more likely to sell your higher priced items, if you have your own gorgeous website with clear pictures and a user-friendly ordering system, rather than just an Etsy store or some lousy-looking website your cousin threw together.

CONSIDER: LEARNING CURVE

Following the jewelry pricing formula, a beginner who takes a long time to make something would charge more than a skilled artist who can make it better and faster. Of course, that makes no sense at all.

Don't let yourself be pressured by other jewelry artists. "You should charge more" is a common refrain that can sometimes mean, "I feel like you're underselling me." Keep in mind that jewelry makers who are just beginning to sell are not going to charge as much as established, in-demand artists. And those who make jewelry as a hobby typically are not going to charge as much as those who are doing it for a living, offering wholesale, and working with boutiques.

BUT DON'T UNDERVALUE YOUR WORK

"I took an intermediate forging class and my instructor, Michael David Sturlin, was full of stories. We briefly discussed the subject of pricing jewelry and he told the class this: 'A jeweler colleague was asked at an artisan show how long it took him to make a particular ring. He responded “30 years and 15 minutes.' - Jodi L. Bombardier, Jewels By Jules

This is a common mistake made by handmade jewelry artists. Remember that customers are not only buying the materials in a piece of jewelry, and the time you spent making it, they're buying your unique vision and expertise. They're buying the hours you spent in metal-smithing classes, and the beadweaving books you read, and the 20 broken necklaces you had to restring before you perfected your technique. They're buying your life-long love of the Victorian Era, and the visit you took to the Louvre, and all the doodles you made as a child. All of this is contained in each piece you make, and it lends value to your work.




Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.

Help! My jewelry isn't selling

You're doing a craft show or art event, you bought displays, you paid $100 for the vendor space, and spent countless hours making inventory.

You put up a website, opened an Etsy store, and started a blog.

And you haven't sold a thing.

Every seller has a bad show once in awhile. And jewelry is an EXTREMELY subjective thing. Remember, it's a form of personal expression -- not just for you, the creator, but for the person who will buy it from you and continue to wear it for the rest of their lives.

But, if you're really having a hard time selling (and profiting), consider these suggestions. Some of them might seem contradictory -- "Try being more creative" vs. "Try being more practical" -- because I'm trying to offer a buffet of food for thought. Pick what applies to you.

First of all: Does your jewelry suck?

Are you making something people would actually be willing to pay money for? Don't trust your friends and family to tell you. If they like you, they will lie.

Be honest with yourself. How are your skills? Is your wire marred and your loops lopsided? Still using barrel clasps? Can't seem to figure out how to get those crimps to stay put? I spent several years making jewelry for friends, family and myself, honing my skills, before I started trying to sell it to strangers.

Are you using unusual, interesting, creative and quality ingredients? Or just throwing together a few "made-in-China" bits you bought at Michael's?

Is your style dated? There's nothing wrong with that, if you're audience is the same age as you are, or if you are going for the "hip," "vintage" or "retro" styles. But, then again, you might be styling yourself out of a sale.

You don't necessarily need to know what's "in" at the moment. Beautiful color combinations, balance, symmetry, artistry, creativity, the appeal of semi-precious stones, meaningful symbols, excellent craftsmanship -- these sorts of things are eternal, while trends come and go.

Does your jewelry have wide appeal?

No matter what you make, there is probably someone, somewhere, who will like it. But that someone might be on the other side of the country, and they never shop on Etsy.

You will have a better chance of selling your jewelry if you aim for colors and styles that have a wider appeal. That doesn't mean you have to compromise your artistic vision... but if your vision involves a lot of neon green and bright orange, it wouldn't hurt to make a few items in basic black, the ever-popular pink, or wedding white, just to see what happens.

Does your jewelry cater to a niche?

Catering to a niche or special interest can improve sales, so long as you find your market. Over the years, I've made jewelry for people interested in sci-fi, cosplay, Irish/Celtic culture, steampunk, fairies, Renaissance Faires, natural childbirth, sock monkeys and gnomes.

These sorts of items consistently sell much better than my other jewelry. For me, the more unusual the piece, the more likely it will sell -- in the appropriate venue. But it can't be too weird... I always try to balance my creativity with good design, quality ingredients, and the preferences of my clientele.

If you are going to create niche jewelry, however, you'll also have to be more selective about the shows you do and the places you advertise. If I'm making jewelry for fans of the sci-fi TV show "Firefly," I post pictures on FireflyFans.net -- but I don't try to sell it at the Celtic Christmas event at Tir na nOg Irish Pub.

Pay attention to what sells

Making jewelry to sell means that you're not the only person involved in the process. The buyer is involved, as well. Pay attention to what sells and why -- whether it's being sold by you or by the vendor next to you. That doesn't mean you have to make the same thing over and over, and you should certainly NEVER try to copy other artists. But you can and should consider your audience when making the bulk of your inventory.

On the flip side, consider where you are selling your jewelry. My jewelry tends to sell really well to people in either California or the UK. I don't even bother trying to sell it locally. Ask yourself who you're trying to reach with your jewelry -- and then figure out where they shop.

Can they buy it at Target or Kohl's?

Your jewelry is beautiful and marketable. After all, it looks just like the stuff selling in the department store.

So, why should they buy it from you? A lot of people don't care whether something is made locally or made in China. So what if you use silver wire and real stones? The one in Wal-Mart looks just like yours, anyway, for 1/3 the price.

I hear this again and again from handmade jewelry sellers: "People just aren't willing to pay what this piece is worth."

This is where creativity, presentation, customization and forging customer relationships are important. You have to make the buyer want to buy from you instead of the chain store. Mention the fact that it's handmade in the USA, that you love doing it, and that their purchases help you support the local no-kill cat shelter. Personalize their experience, so that they will have a special connection with you.

Durability and practicality

I've seen a lot of beautiful and extremely impractical jewelry. Ask yourself, could this be worn to work? To a night on the town? Will it snag sweaters, get tangled in hair? Scratch the wearer's skin? Is it too heavy or too bulky? Would it be easily broken by the grabby hands of a baby?

You can certainly make some wild and woolly pieces of wacky adornment, but if you just can't seem to sell anything, you might try adding some more practical and durable jewelry to your offerings.

Creativity

On the other hand, if your jewelry is already very sedate, practical and conservative, maybe you need to mix it up with some unusual color choices, more elaborate pieces, or try using some entirely new technique.

Presentation

Less is more. Don't get too cluttered. The jewelry should be easy to see.

Displays. Are they clean, in good shape? Are they creative? Your presentation says a lot about you and your jewelry.

Pay attention to lighting.

If it's online, revisit your photos. If you shot it on a white background, try re-shooting it on black, or with a prop. Try a different angle, or a better closeup.

Pricing

I've found that it helps to have a wide range of price points, so that there's something for every budget. If everything you have is $15 or less, those with fatter wallets and finer tastes might pass you by. If everything is $60 or more, you might be passed up by 3/4 of the buyers -- the ones who are looking for a small birthday gift or fun memento, the ones with children to feed, the ones hit hard by the economy, etc.

When I say that you should offer some less expensive items, I mean simpler items. Things that cost you less time and money to make. What I DO NOT want you to do is lower your prices on your regular jewelry, nor skimp on quality. In my experience, most jewelry artists are already under-pricing themselves. What does lowering your prices say to your clientele? "I don't value this work, so why should you?"

Have patience

I've heard jewelry-makers say things like "I put up a shop on Etsy, and nothing sold within the first two months, so I closed it."

When you put something on the internet, you have the potential to reach the whole world. But that doesn't mean you will reach the whole world. Or that you will have the world knocking on your virtual door within the first five minutes you appear online, no matter how great your jewelry might be.

As I write this, I've had a website selling my own jewelry online for about a decade. It took me at least three years to build up a customer base and to work my way up in the Google rankings. I do have several pieces that will sell immediately... but I also have pieces that don't sell for 6-8 months or more. Just recently, I had a necklace that hadn't sold for two years. I finally cut it apart to use the beads in other ways, and the very night I'd deconstructed it, someone ordered it on my website before I'd had a chance to remove the listing (and I had to issue them a refund). So, you just never know!




Jen Hilton makes one-of-a-kind jewelry sold through her website JLHJewelry.com. She is the founder of the Triangle Jewelry Makers and is featured in the books "Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings" and "1000 Steampunk Creations: Neo-Victorian Fashion, Gear, and Art" available at Amazon and other booksellers.